Finally! The perfect Moules Marinieres!

The perfect bowl of moules mariniere! They were not available in the South, but I was finally able to find them at this little cafe in Paris. Delectable, tiny, wonderful garlicky sauce--quite possibly the best meal we had.

And even the dried fruits look delicious!

The Normandy Beaches

I posted some pictures from the Normandy beaches, but didn’t write anything about it. Tom and I drove through the Loire Valley, Brittany and Normandy years ago—I think that was the year 12-year-old Eric was with us—and one of the highlights of that trip, and of all my memories in fact, was the American Cemetery on Omaha Beach. When we visited before, as I remember, there were very few people, the day was serene—sunny, not somber—and I remember looking out over the thousands of rows of perfectly symmetrical crosses and some Stars of David, each presiding over the grave of one of our brave World War II warriors—and being so awe-struck I could hardly breathe. It has always been among my most treasured memories. The prospect of seeing it again was a major motivation for going on the cruise, and the cemetery itself did not disappoint.

We set off on buses for the two and a half hour journey from where the boat was docked. As we approached the area where the Normandy invasions occurred, we passed here and there some plaques, monuments, tanks and other memorabilia commemorating the war. The weather had been cloudy and cool during our entire trip—not a problem for my money because you get far less tired in cool, cloudy weather—but that day was particularly threatening with dark clouds and a strong wind. But yet again the weather held and while it was not exactly a nice day, it didn’t rain! Merci, sacre Dieu!

First, we went to the WWII museum at Arromanches, very well done but it would take you two days to see it properly and we had less than an hour. Then we went to Omaha Beach. Our guide told us a lot about those terrible days leading up to D-Day, about the horrible weather which postponed the actual landing, the lack of communication among the various generals as to who was where, and about the thousands and thousands who died. One quote from I-forget-which General stuck with me: “Everybody here is either dead or about to die, so let’s get the hell out of here.”

It is unquestionably most hallowed ground. The spectacular semi-circular monument at the entrance to the site is engraved “To These We Owe The High Resolve That The Cause For Which They Died Shall Live.” After that there is a beautiful reflecting pool which, on a calm day, reflects the huge bronze statue at the front.

Then you walk out into the sea of crosses. You begin by reading a few of the names—Robert W. Rigg, James D. Boone, David G. Dean, James W. Winstead, and occasionally, a Comrade in Arms Known Only to God. It blows me away to think that these were real people with lives and dreams and hopes for the future that would never be realized.

And then you stop reading the names because there are too many, and you just walk and walk. It seems to go on forever. There are more than 9,000 graves at Omaha Beach. We didn’t have the cemetery all to ourselves the way we did the first time, but it was still an awesome sight. After walking around the cemetery we went through the extensive museum, again giving it short shrift for lack of time, and then met the bus for the next leg of the tour which was the actual battleground at Utah Beach, left just as it was with deep craters where bombs were dropped and vestiges of bunkers where the soldiers tried to take cover. It’s all very sad and depressing, but at the same time, majestic, powerful,and necessary to see.

It gives one a new appreciation for how lucky we are to be Americans.

The Church of St. Germain des Pres

This Church gets very little press but if you look closely, the murals and pillars all have the original decorations and paintings. The Cathedral at Albi, which is better preserved, is the only one I have seen that has these original paintings in such good condition. We couldn't believe our good fortune having come across it by chance. Be sure and click so you can see how beautiful they are.

Paris: The City of Lovers

The Garden of Tuileries with the Louvre in two of the pictures and another famous landmark in the other

Montmartre--again not in the right order

The magnificent Sacre Coeur--we could see this landmark from our hotel room although it is a long distance away. I'll show you that picture later.

The street scene: unfortunately way, way too many people.

This used to be a green park with artists all along the periphery. They've turned it into a giant cafe with shoulder to shoulder tables. Hideous...

More Paris Pictures, captions not necessarily in the right order...

A spooky view of Pere La Chaise Cemetery where many famous people including Chopin, Honore de Balzac, Sarah Bernhardt, Maria Callas (ashes only), Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, and last but not least, Jim Morrison, are buried. We walked and walked and almost didn't find our way out...

A pretty view of one of the many bridges over the Seine.

A lovely little shop tucked into a corner.

A few pictures of Notre Dame Exterior

Notre Dame is a beautiful cathedral and you could spend some quality time just perusing the exterior. We noticed this little procession of green-patinaed saints scaling the tippy top and two of these pictures show the distance and the close up shots. I don't remember them from the last time we saw Notre Dame, but I'm sure they were there...

Rappers in Paris (at least I think they're rappers)

This is my feeble attempt to film a street scene in Paris--I need to practice more, but you get the flavor.... Click on the forward button to start

Back in Paris

The picture of the cafe is the site of Jack the Whacker, can't remember if I told you about that or not, but in any case it is just for Eric.


Notre Dame de Paris


The book stalls on the Left Bank

More pictures from the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach

The picture of the four young men is of the Niland brothers that the movie Saving Private Ryan was based on. Two were killed within days of D-Day, one was reported missing in action but was returned home after being in a POW camp, and the fourth was sent home by the Army.

The Reflecting pool in front of the Cemetery.

Another shot of the thousands of crosses in perfect symmetry.

A Festival in the City of Light

June 21:

Okay, this is worth a detour from the itinerary. We had the most amazing experience tonight. It is our second night in Paris. Yesterday was lovely. After we checked into the hotel we walked into the Latin Quarter which was much as we remembered it, came back to the hotel, rested a bit, and went back out to the Latin Quarter where we had a good enough dinner and then strolled back to the hotel.

Today we walked a lot, all the way to the Pere La Chaise Cemetery, seeing the Marais in the bargain. We covered a lot of ground, and thankfully managed a taxi to get back to the hotel because walking back the 3-4 miles that we covered would have been a chore.

Tom napped, I fiddled around, and then around six we opened the bottle of wine we had purchased along the way and cleaned up for the evening’s stroll back into the Latin Quarter to people watch and have a leisurely meal in one of the myriad cafes.

While getting ready I was delighted to notice that right below our window (we are on the sixth floor of the Hotel Claude Bernard on Rue des Ecoles—near the Sorbonne), some musicians were gearing up for a gig. I went out on the small balcony of our hotel and snapped and recorded a few shots. How sweet. I figured it was just a random street scene.

Then we left and took our normal route to the Latin Quarter and noticed that…wait…there was another group playing on the next corner. Wait! Yet another on the side street! Oh my! Two groups are competing for space on the next street! And the next! And oh by the way, there are so many people you can’t breathe! Most are under 25 and all smoking.

Now. Lest you think these are pleasant little street combos strumming accordions and guitars with a girl singer crooning love songs, let me set you straight. THIS IS THE LOUDEST ROCK AND ROLL AND THE MOST RAUCOUS MUSIC I HAVE EVER HEARD!!!

As I write this, I lie in my bed (Tom is actually sleeping) and there is heavy metal music playing right under my window. Complete with amps turned to full volume. Oh well…It’s 11:34, they will turn into pumpkins at midnight. Yeah, right… I’m just grateful to be “home” safe.

Earlier, as we got closer to the Latin Quarter, the crowds grew larger and more aggressive, the cigarette AND the pot smoke was overwhelming, and the music was everywhere to the point that I don’t know how the musicians could play with all the competition!

As we progressed toward the Quarter, the crowds grew greater, and the music grew louder, and I grew more and more agitated. I am not prone to panic attacks, but I saw no means of escape, couldn’t even see a possible spot for a drink, and envisioned being caught in this maze of people and “music” for…the prospects of for how long are what gave me the feeling of panic.

We did manage, though, finally, to sneak into a familiar little café where a table in the corner, a couple of carafes of wine, and some French onion soup made the evening ever so much brighter.

We asked the waiter what was up—my fear was that this was the “new” Paris and this was normal for every night (last night being Sunday and a day of rest)—but it turns out that this was June 21, the annual Fete de la Musique, a country-wide musical extravaganza that started about fifteen years ago and is now a treasured tradition! Not just in Paris! According to the internet, la Fête de la Musique is a lively street music festival held every June 21st in Paris, and is one of the year's most popular events in the city of light. Hundreds of musicians gather in the streets, bars, and cafes of Paris, giving free performances of everything from jazz and rock to hip-hop and electronic music. This is how one can get a “taste of authentic Paris culture”. Needless to say, not only tourists like us are here, but people come from far and wide specifically for this event! I was telling Avery about it on the phone tonight and she said “oh yes, I forgot to warn you about that…we have it here in Cannes as well.”

And so thus fortified with wine and onion soup, we made our way back to the hotel although the crowds had not diminished (in fact were just gearing up) and the music had increased to ear-splitting decibels. You had to be there…

NOTE: As I’m writing this it has suddenly grown silent. It is 11:50. I breathe a silent prayer.

Within fifteen minutes, I am asleep….

The American Cemetery, Omaha Beach, Normandy

I will post some more pictures of the cemetery, but just look at these crosses, row after row after row, in perfect alignment, not a blade of grass out of place, serenely beautiful, yet each one died a terrible death and is buried far from home.

The Streets of Rouen

The Magnificent Cathedral of Rouen

These Pictures Need No Explanation.

More Cruising on the Seine

New friends and old friends aboard the Viking Spirit





















Timbered houses in the town of Vernon (pronounced Vair-NO', unlike the Texas town of Vernon)










And flowers Everywhere

Cruising on the Seine

Sunset on the Seine














Going through one of the six locks outside of Paris. I wish I understood how they work and why we need them.....

A country estate along the Seine outside of Paris

More pictures of Paris

A typical Parisian apartment house with its flower boxes, wrought iron and beautiful facade.











A view from the Pont Alexandre 3rd--the most beautiful bridge in Paris




Looking down the River Seine

More pictures of Paris

The Arc de Triomphe; a typical street scene on the left bank